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Charles Jeffrey Loverboy’s shows are always a personal favourite of mine! Lots of drama and theatre, which is a welcome change from often similar productions on catwalks. Loverboy embraces the genderless and the misunderstood through a celestial study of bodies: new bodies, changing bodies, accepted and unaccepted bodies. Loverboy proposes a serene alternative reality, a sci-fi Xanadu of utopian harmony and a post-gender Shangri-La littered with stardust; we are after all made of stardust, as every element within the human body and on earth is in fact formed in a star, so despite our differences on the outside, we are actually all connected on a cellular level and in our ability to co-create the future as a collective.
Some of the models had facial prosthetics and others had protrusions, which added to this rather interesting exploration of how we perceive beauty and the constant need to be visually perfect. The use of the mask like prosthetics also spoke to how we all wear masks to protect oneself or define our egos, but really all that matters is what is underneath.
An athleisure jogging suit with military frogging were a personal highlight, which featured on trousers and jackets. The combination of bold clashing prints, the house tartan patchwork tailoring and bold colourways were a breath of fresh air in an industry that can sometimes play it too safe.
Words // Christobelle Batchelor - Fashion Director
Photos // Charles Jeffrey Loverboy
This season, Iceberg showcased an extra streetwear collection with a range of bold colours, adding diversity of prints, including their brand name written on the majority of pieces.
Pieces reminded me more of minimalistic sportswear, with simple silhouettes, lots of tracksuits, zip up jackets and trainers everywhere. The majority of prints were striped, followed by the Iceberg logo sitting in the middle. There was a good mix of full denim outfits, alongside some more classy casual looks using blazers. Simple colour blocking techniques were also seen in collection and to mix it all up, there were some screaming details made in neon colours.
To make this collection even more outstanding, iconic characters such as the Pink Panther were incorporated and we saw a diversity of faces from Peanuts. Ever the fan of pink, my absolute favourite was a pink tracksuit. This collection was a lot of fun!
Words // Daria Shumaieva - Fashion Assistant
Photos // Iceberg
Wow Wow Wow! This was an incredibly conscious collection from Christopher Raeburn and the following quote (I adore a quote) was just everything! – ‘We’ve always tried to look at things differently and this collection is no different, we’re all part of the problem but the good news is that we’re all part of the solution.’ Now this for me is such a poignant exploration of something very close to my heart; we are living in times of great change where the old patriarchal consumerist paradigms are crumbling and we all have a responsibility to Mother Earth and indeed to us as a collective to heal and balance the wounding that we and the planet have experienced.
The impetus for the collection came from NASA satellite images of the receding glaciers, highlighting that the constant need to consume is destroying the earth. The power we all have to co-create a solution is just so important to understand! Our consciousness has a huge effect on the earth as a living being!
References from the REMADE pieces are pulled into the main collection, with NASA images and parachute detailing used across jerseys. Branded woven patches and debossed tapes with branded heat transfers were also introduced on t-shirts, whilst reversible hoodies, joggers and an anorak have been replicated in limited quantities using recycled PET and organic cotton. This was a truly brilliantly visceral call to arms for us all to take control of the direction of the future of our species.
Words // Christobelle Batchelor - Fashion Director
Photos // Christopher Raeburn
John Lawrence Sullivan’s collection was a strong expression of the Rebel within! Subcultural provocateurs, post punk and new wave were the inspiration this season, with highlights being high shine PVC, heavy soled creepers and washed denim.
‘Afterdark’ featured as embroidery was the word lifted from the pages of Lurker Grand’s Hot Love: Swiss Punk & Wave, 1976-1980, a chronicle of the country’s music scene and the youth who defined it, with their printed ephemera, fashion and DIY zines. Even the polka dots in the collection were from a promotional image of one of the era’s underground bands.
Inspired also by Dave Gahan, the iconic frontman of Depeche Mode, we saw midriff bearing tops, leather black trousers and sharp shouldered tailoring. It was just so effortlessly cool and the layering of sleeveless jackets over shirts and hoodies took us back to when these looks were revolutionary!
Words // Christobelle Batchelor - Fashion Director
Photos // John Lawrence Sullivan
This season we saw a collaborative collection by 3.Paradis X PONY, with their capsule collection being named Far Away from Home. The story behind this is the reference to the brand being far away from where they originate (New York) and a metaphor for those who escaped their homes to live a better life in hope of paradise.
To remind everyone of the sporty influence of the PONY brand, the collection was made in an athletic streetwear style, using a lot of layering on both the top and bottom. There was some very interesting styling going on there, such as three layers of tops, including a vest with number of pockets, making it look more industrial rather than casual.
Some of the pieces had extremely heavy details such as buckles, zips and pockets all over the pieces. Things however took an unexpected turn when I started photographing looks using the flash, which was when I realised all the looks had reflective materials in them, with laces and stripes becoming beautifully illuminated.
Words // Daria Shumaieva - Fashion Assistant
This season, English presented a collection for both men and women, exploring various textures and compositions, to create juxtaposition between these two personalities in two divergent collections.
The menswear pieces were practical, structured silhouettes, composed of waffle linen shirts, waxed cotton jackets, bull denim trousers and dense linen shorts; all produced a debonair masculine collection of practicality. I particularly loved the bomber jackets, which would be absolutely perfect for the spring. The tones of the collection conveyed rain cloud grey, marine blue, black, off white and flame orange.
The womenswear juxtaposed with the men’s collection, conveying an imaginative and flamboyant story full of personality, unlike the more reserved men’s pieces. English displayed a variety of pieces and we saw elegant taffeta dresses as well as tulle shift dresses embellished with black sequins and light cottons. The women’s collection did however incorporate aspects of menswear and we saw white buttoned shirts styled with a tulle sequinned dress on top, creating some beautiful moments.
Words // Ellie Mose - Senior Fashion Assistant
Photos // Phoebe English
Walking into Edward Crutchley’s show, we were met with an amazing dystopian work as the background for the catwalk. This was a contemporary mythology, serving to question our relationship to screens and transhumanism. As we face a definite move for more and more reliance on technology, we are left to question what will be the future of man and technology.
In order to provide some contrast this concept, Crutchley took us through a journey of soft flowing fabrics, kimono vests and sleeveless samurai vests, with the draping and freedom of movement speaking to a return to earthy connection with Mother Nature and the realisation that true connection does not lie behind a screen.
The creation of the hand printed and foil prints, alongside high resolution ink jet prints with Chiso and Kyo-Yuzen kimono printers, showcased such a wonderful use of innovative technology through ancient techniques. It was also wonderful to see Crutchley take inspiration from Japanese court dress, 1940s tailoring and even 1990s RnB artists. This was a wonderfully cohesive and intelligent balance of the ancient and the futuristic, showing us that we can indeed balance those polarities.
Words // Christobelle Batchelor - Fashion Director
Photos // Edward Crutchley
This season, we were privy to a catwalk show from St James’s in the format of See Now Buy Now. The looks were a mixture of iconic brands such as Jigsaw, Paul & Shark, Harvie & Hudson and many others, styled all together by Grace Gilfeather.
We were treated to some really fresh summer outfits on the catwalk, incorporating simple silhouettes, yet still keeping looks contemporary and effortlessly made in a casual classic style.
The majority of the looks were classic suits, with variations of different colours and textures in the blazers, some of which were matched with trousers. Accessorised with hats and sunglasses, models were looking particularly charming and stylish.
Throughout the show, I noted that all materials and fabrics used in collections were extremely lightweight and looked very breathable. My absolute favourite were the white trousers and shirt with an outstanding double breasted yellow blazer look. Dark sunglasses, a statement ring and pink socks provided beautiful further details in this standout outfit.
Words // Daria Shumaieva - Fashion Assistant
Photos // St James'
Oliver Spencer’s collection was an idyllic piece of British countryside, starting the show with a vernal themed video full of daisies and poppies. As the models glided through a veil of tulle, you could just feel the springtime!
This was for the modern man with fresh springtime tones of beige, blue, white and pink. We were treated to loose fitting suits with cropped trousers, whilst daisy chain necklaces added a casual tone to the idea of a summer suit. These are instantly wearable pieces which you can mix and match in any combination, providing the perfect transition for any man’s wardrobe.
Words // Christobelle Batchelor - Fashion Director
Photos // Oliver Spencer
Per Götesson debuted his first solo fashion show this season, having previously shown in Fashion East’s MAN. This season was inspired by Renaissance Artist Jan van Eyck’s Arnolfini Portrait, with the male figure in this portrait wearing a voluminous cape. In this collection, Götesson explores how we view masculinity in our times and how sexuality is expressed as a result of this.
The collection similarly played with proportions with billowing trousers and voluminous silhouettes. Attached to the back of his draped structural denim jackets were woven and embroidered fabrics, provided by his mother and grandmother, which added a nice connection to his feminine ancestral line juxtaposed with this exploration of modern masculinity.
I absolutely loved the broken plate brooches of the Queen, Prince Harry and Meghan Markle adding a delightful playfulness to the collection.
Words // Christobelle Batchelor - Fashion Director
Photos // Per Götesson
Alex Mullins’ SS19 collection was a breath of fresh air, with incredibly strong looks which did not pay homage to the status quo. This was a whistle stop journey through nine three-look groups in order to visit the sheer variety of menswear that isn’t often shown or imagined on the catwalk.
There were double-breasted boxy two tone jackets with contrasted colours to provide a refreshing zing. The waterproof swimming trunk fabric with layers of neon were a stroke of genius! I just loved the sheer confidence of this collection and my personal highlight was the burnt rose suit printed with an Asian koi fish pattern. It was just so ethereal and sang to my Pisces Moon. The Piscean energy of having one fish looking forward and one looking back in the ethereal waters was just so poignant here, showing the connection between a classic reference to the past with a suit, but bringing it firmly into the future with a beautifully reimagined print.
It was amazing to learn that Mullins was inspired by some stickers which he found in a local bargain shop, showing us that the most beautiful things can be found in the most unexpected places. All in all, this was a perfectly iconoclastic collection which sang to my soul!
Words // Christobelle Batchelor - Fashion Director
Photos // Alex Mullins
Wood Wood’s SS19 collection was all about nature, beautifully translated through the designs and even the name for this presentation: The Outside. Living in times where our major focus goes on technology, Wood Wood, wanted us to forget about this moment during their show. With 90s active wear vibes in designs, it stirred feelings of an explorer in a forest or jungle.
The looks felt very lightweight, sustainable and functional, yet very minimalistic and contemporary. There were a lot of accessories such as bucket hats and high socks, teamed up with cargo pants, which personally took me on a safari journey, as well as a lot of oversized jackets and hooded anoraks.
Speaking of womenswear, we could see a number of skirts and dresses made in a very feminine drape, with colourful prints, mainly showing flower patterns or geometric patterns in nature. My favourite piece in this collection was the oversized navy jumpsuit with contrast stitching, as well as a co-ord in a beautiful coral colour made in denim fabric.
Words // Daria Shumaieva - Fashion Assistant
Photos // Wood Wood
In the world of fast fashion, Matthew Miller’s SS19 K-Swiss collaboration was a wonderfully conscious take on recycling. Miller explains that having “discovered this (recycling) tech, but as a small designer, I wasn’t big enough to utilise it because it’s hydro-powered and we had to do a certain amount of (volume) to make it environmentally viable.”
Furthermore, he synchronistically came across 10,000 band T-shirts which were destined for landfill. His one condition for his collaboration with K-Swiss was that the ready-to-wear would have to be made using this innovative technology.
For the mainline, Miller took us on a journey through the British underground club movement, where each look pertained to one of these trendsetting characters. Metallic moments juxtaposed with pops of neon colours, adding to this Acid House feel. Military themes tempered this with lots of pockets and backless bulletproof-like vests, added strength and functionality to the collection.
Words // Christobelle Batchelor - Fashion Director
Photos // Matthew Miller
Xander Zhou’s show was about as challenging as it can get! And I loved it! Zhou had models walk down the catwalk appearing to be pregnant, with A.I voices chanting, ‘I am digitised’, which was a very interesting take on transhumanism as the lines between genders get more and more blurred alongside an increasing reliance on technology. How will the human race transform? I think we stand on the brink of massive change and where we choose to co-create our evolution will be very, very interesting. What is it that actually makes us human?
The models wore articulated trousers with knee pads, high tech layers and ET inspired prints. My favourite t-shirt wore the slogan, ‘New World Baby’, which played on a how we are transitioning from the old archaic systems of doing things and seeing life alchemise in new and beautiful ways.
Words // Christobelle Batchelor - Fashion Director
Photos // Xander Zhou
Danshan’s SS19 collection was entitled What’s Missing, creating an intricate facile collection, which fixated on emotions and the absence of sensitivity and how this affects our behaviour. Danshan explored the undervalued variation of the modern male life, accentuating the freedom of sensitivity and vulnerability for men. This was portrayed through astute pieces such as halter neck cut out tops, accompanied with silk shirts and oversized trench coats.
The silk pieces and cut out tops also conveyed a sense femininity, showing skin and wearing soft materials isn’t viewed as masculine in today’s culture. Danshan has stood up to today’s culture and showed personality and true emotions through materials and composition. We saw thicker materials such as brilliant white denim jackets and jeans, while the harsher textures were colourless, showing us that being strong doesn’t always shine through clearly in personality. Men ultimately need to be able to show their emotions and not feel trapped. To this end, the collection was exquisite!
The collection was completed with black, white, indigo, moss green and camel tones, styled on smooth textures of linen, silk and denim. This is a stylish ready to wear collection, perfect for spring and summer.
Words // Ellie Mose - Senior Fashion Assistant
Photos // Danshan
Michiko Koshino’s SS19 Collection took you on a journey the second you stepped into the presentation. With Hawaiian music filling the room along with palm trees, coconuts and sushi were being served as you were transported to a paradise vacation. This season, the Japanese designer focussed solely on the stereotypical ambience of summer, with her own unique take on it. The collection was influenced by exoticism and the fantasy of vacations, escaping life and jet setting to a new world of paradise and relaxation.
Unique and intricate silhouettes were presented in front of a picturesque perfect blue sky back drop, fusing with bold neon tones and tropical patterns of the garments. There were two themes integrated throughout the collection; the vision of relaxation, portrayed through unbuttoned Hawaiian tropical patterned shirts, accompanied with khaki trousers and sandals. This juxtaposed with the concept of airport departure, where silver boiler suits emblazoned with the phrase Internal Crew represented the whole journey of travelling. One of my particularly favourite pieces was a gender neutral skirt, constructed from neon luggage straps with phrases such as heavy, transfer and standby. I really loved how Koshino was able to combine all aspects of travelling in an exceptionally stylish way.
The collection was made up of some truly impeccable pieces, with tropical shirts, camouflaged bomber jackets, dungarees and of course the recognisable inflatable pieces. The collection was composed of fine cottons, linen and polyester pieces, enriched with Khaki green, leaf green and brown tones accompanied by tropical jungle leaf prints.
Each season, Koshino continues to present a completely new concept from the last and this did not disappoint! This is a collection which is both ready to wear and high fashion.
Words // Christobelle Batchelor - Fashion Director
Photos // Michiko Koshino
CV22 Rugby England’s SS19 presentation came in the format of a beautiful immersive multimedia installation. The concept behind this brand came from a small market town named Rugby in England, bringing the classic aesthetics of menswear and mixing it with sportswear for the true modern gentleman.
This season, their collection was entitled Prototype, taking us back to the origins of British sportswear, the kits they used, not forgetting the classics of menswear and also considering design, silhouettes and fabrics, which were all smartly utilised.
The pieces looked very raw and sustainable overall, especially due to the use of undyed cotton, though they still managed to create contemporary silhouettes by bringing in blazers, trousers and polo shirts.
Some of the white pieces were used as canvases for a projector to show the audience a variety of prints and colours and in the middle of the presentation, we saw models jumping over the skipping rope, providing a sentimental reminder of old school times. Classic.
Words // Daria Shumaieva - Fashion Assistant
Photos // CV22 Rugby England
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