RIXO x HOUSE OF CHRISTIAN LACROIX // LFW AW20

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Ashish is always such a spectacular treat for the senses and AW20’s offering was no exception! This show was the perfect antidote to the sometimes-overwhelming sense of malaise we are bombarded with daily. 

Ashish is the King of the sequins and he hit us with renewed aplomb. Larger paillettes were layered to mimic the dreamy shimmer of hazy watercolour brushstrokes, while granular sequins were fastidiously beaded to recreate and reinterpret nostalgic visuals. The chosen materiality served as the lynchpin for this ode to joy. “Using sequins has always been an act of rebellion,” says the designer. “It's a medium that people aren't necessarily very kind to, but there's just something so joyous about it.”

These were looks seemingly created for Holly Golightly’s edgier sister, with prints galore full of polka dots, zebra stripes and leopard spots, as well as blockish geometric patterns, metallic Art Deco swirls and bright daisy splotches. Delicately clumped on striped mini dresses and mock neck evening gowns, they called a glimmering lurex knit to mind, and with a red and black plaid effect, we were gifted a disco-ready take on a macho-man’s lumberjack shirt. This process of elevating the identifiable and the mundane through such intricate handcrafting speaks to the joy to be found in fantasy. Ultimately, if we all begin to tune into the vibration of joy and love, the distorted tones of fear will have no choice but to harmonise. 

Words // Christobelle Batchelor - Fashion Director 

Photos // Ashish

Marques’Almeida’s AW20 offering provided visuals for every facet of my soul, from Piscean kaleidoscopic moments, to Gemini stipes, Prinny moments and ruffles galore! As we start the season of Pisces, this was a very visual representation of the sign that contains within it, a little bit of every colour and every other sign, ultimately being the nebulous rainbow where our soul’s lessons and gifts culminate in a return to divinity. 

Inspired by HBO’s ‘Euphoria’ and mixing Rue’s cool girl grunge with Jules’ noughties coquettish Harajuku vibes, these were raver looks for the modern age, presented with badass coats and acid wash denim. This was freedom in its truest expression and ultimately, what fashion should be about. 

Congratulations go to Marta Marques for birthing not only this beautiful collection with Paulo Almeida, but also on her new bundle of joy!

Words // Christobelle Batchelor - Fashion Director 

Photos // Marques’Almeida

 Daks, the British heritage brand, is such a go-to if you need old school tailoring with an elegant and modern touch. The signature check, so synonymous with the brand, was reimagined with supreme elegance for AW20, treating us to a sumptuous journey through all the fashion musts of the season, from belted jackets, to capes and full length coats. 

Words // Christobelle Batchelor - Fashion Director 

Photos // Daks

What an elegant and sumptuous visual masterclass we experienced for Bora Aksu’s AW20 collection, with Hilma af Klint, one of the world’s most pioneering abstract artists, serving as the inspiration. Having been born in Sweden in 1862, Hilma followed a path as was expected for a woman with artistic talent of her time, studying classical drawing and painting techniques at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Stockholm. The soul incarnates in this material plane with gifts to be expressed, although not always in an ‘atypical’ way, and this was the journey of Hilma, who after the loss of her sister in 1896, turned to spiritualism and formed a group with four other women artists called the ‘five.’ As part of the group, she created experimental automatic drawings, leading her towards inventive geometric visual language, containing visual representations of the divine creation behind all things such as the flower of life, fractals of light and concepts such as ‘as above so below’.

This collection showcased a beautiful contrast between the traditional side of the Victorian artist, containing sombre tones and shapes, with the feminine flow of tulle and bright colours expressing her abstract expression of divinity as an artist. There were also more structured shapes in the Victoriana pieces, showing how women were only accepted in this world if they tried to be like men, although of course juxtaposed with the boundless creativity of the layered feminine abstract pieces.

This was a thought-provoking reminder of the masks we all put on because of who we think we are supposed to be, which is essentially an amalgamation of the indoctrination of who our parents wanted us to be, what our teachers said we could never be and what society ultimately applauds. In contrast, however, our truest expression of identity is also divine, containing light and love, none of which needs to attach to any of this. It just IS, and this is often our truest gift which must be shared with the world. 

Words // Christobelle Batchelor - Fashion Director 

Photos // Bora Aksu

My favourite kind of fashion is birthed by mixing contrasting pop culture references, which Ashley Williams of course does so well. In the AW20 offering, we were treated to cutesy prom style puff dresses with pink dollar bills, along with air spray portraits of Einstein and Mona Lisa on fringed dresses and tops. 

These were powerful party looks infused with an air of not having to even try. 00s fashion was a key reference point and we re-witnessed the debut of the Samsung Galaxy flip phone for all our life affirming throwback needs. There was such a carefree aura surrounding the whole collection, typified with a nonchalant slogan of, ‘IN DOG YEARS I’M DEAD’, on one of the sweatshirts, which was such lovely tongue-in-cheek reference to how life is measured through perspective. 

Words // Christobelle Batchelor - Fashion Director 

Photos // Ashley Williams 

Richard Malone’s AW20 collection was a masterclass in integrity and creativity, showcasing his commitment to and awareness of the impact fashion has had upon the environment, as well as through the exploitation of people. He has therefore committed to the four “innovation pillars”, including the use of plant-based dyes and regenerative fabrics for environmental awareness, customer transparency and the desire to exchange experiences with other designers, as well as through working with recycled yarns and minimal waste.

Stand out moments were his underwear as outerwear pieces, which I have always loved to do. The recycled leather pieces were so powerful, especially with the juxtaposition of the jewelled toned colours. This was a thoroughly visual journey, almost like a wave with peaks and troughs in terms of proportions of the pieces. Crescendoing with these beautiful accordion like asymmetric dresses, Malone showed us you can be consciously practical while also remaining mystically ethereal in your unique symphony like note along the octaves. 

Words // Christobelle Batchelor - Fashion Director

Photos // Richard Malone

Bobby Abley loves to reference 90s/00s nostalgia with modern twists, and this season was no different! Courtesy of PVC chaps, we were treated to Stripped-era Xtina vibes, with tiaras and glitter chokers adding even more sass to the proceedings. Minions were also a huge theme in the collection, as Abley debuted his Minions diffusion line, which will be stocked at Primark. We were further treated to elongated jumpers, PVC dungarees and argyle twinsets, in what was a fun and thoroughly fearless collection!

Words // Christobelle Batchelor - Fashion Director

Photos // Bobby Abley

This season, Rocky Star presented his dexterous Autumn/Winter collection, reminiscing on the archives of timeless classics throughout fashion history and rejuvenating vintage silhouettes into high fashion yet modern functionality. Through exploration of the symbolism of inception, the focussing and desaturation of the mind echoed throughout every piece in the collection. Each season, Star presents divergent offerings, while keeping abreast of modern frameworks and trends, yet adding his fabulous facile signature. 

The collection saw Rocky Star redefine baroque styles, in monochrome tones incorporated with flashes of metallic golds, bronze, brown and blacks throughout, gifting a lavish and enriched offering. The garments expressed effortlessness and at a first glance, one may have assumed they were simplistic, however, as the models came down the catwalk you could see the hidden drama in the intricate Victorian ruffles, hemlines, refined pleats and textured fabrics. Rocky Star further explored a full range of juxtaposing fabrics and movements, from dexterous tailored jackets, faux leather trenches, striking sequined bombers, free flowing skirts and superlative dresses. 

This collection did its level best to explore just about every successful fashion trend through history, from the Victorian ruffled high neck lines, to balloon sleeves, 70’s styled flared trousers, lavishly accompanied by a modern structured leather jacket and accentuated by a striking thick belt. Here, Rocky Star brought vintage styles and formations and turned them into something both modern and ready to wear. A classic and timeless collection.

Words // Ellie Mose- Senior Fashion Assistant

Photos // Rocky Star

For this season, we gathered in the iconic Serpentine gallery to witness the breathtaking cashmere and textile innovation. Creative Director, Alan Scott, took inspiration from landscapes around the globe, including the Scottish Highlands, South American skylines and ice-capped Mongolian mountains. He also looked at re-imagining long-established weaving techniques and bringing them back to life alongside traditional Fair Isle jacquard prints.

This collection was all about reflecting on where the brand has come from and where the next steps might take us. The use of 3D seamless technology allowed for the experimentation and elevation of quality throughout the collection, while also preserving traditional handcrafting skills in tandem with new technology. 

Hero pieces to highlight throughout the new collection include the Reversible Mongolian Kimono Jacket, a modern twist of a classic, which was presented alongside the Red Tweed Check Trench Coat, Mongolian knitwear inspired Kilim Jacquard Cardigan, and the striking Check Reversible Car Coat in Tweed Check and Olive Ventile. 

A truly heritage brand, Johnstons of Elgin showcases quality that stands the test of time for the modern age. 

Words // Christobelle Batchelor - Fashion Director

Photos // Johnstons of Elgin

The Garden of Eden, an idyllic paradise of flora and fauna, which flourished when man lived in tune with Mother Nature’s cycles, served as the inspiration for Jiri Kalfar’s AW20 collection. Having been a dancer, one of his idols was British choreographer, Wayne McGregor, whose show “Eden Eden”, deeply moved him into recreating the emotions he felt from this performance into the fashion world.

Combining the haute couture way of creating garments, such as embroidery and hand-stitching, mixed with modern day technology, Jiri sought to create a demi-couture sustainable collection for today’s culture, yet with a humble reminder of the tradition and elegance of the past. 

We saw models come down the runway with their faces covered, perhaps in reference to how when we look beneath the surface of superficiality, we are as one human family. There were pinks, greens and browns inspired by the natural world of flowers, trees and animal markings, which all came with the recognition that sustainable fashion should still be fun. This collection was playful, being full of colour and challenging cuts, yet made consciously with locally produced and manufactured materials, right down to the bohemian crystals provided by Preciosa.

Words // Christobelle Batchelor - Fashion Director

Photos // Shaun James Cox

All Power to the Imagination, read the mantra for this season, which was a slogan hailing from the Parisian student uprisings in May 1968. This is a call-to-arms, yet not of this world, for if we only experience the world with our limited five senses, then it stands to reason the other 95 percent of our experience occurs in the realm of spirit, otherwise known as the imagination, where things must be dreamed up or conceived before manifesting into our 3D reality. Our approach therefore must be to move away from the obsession with material products, consumerism and exploitation, to a place where our spirits and imagination can truly create in tune with a new vision for the earth and humanity. This statement highlights the mood at On|Off this season, reflecting a yearning to protect the art of fashion, individualism & self-expression, a positive message of hope, not only for us collectively, but for a creative industry at a time of enormous revolutionary change and upheaval.

Words // Christobelle Batchelor - Fashion Director

Photos // On|Off

This season, Malan Breton introduced his thematic collection, ‘The rise of the Phoenix’, displayed at St Georges Church in Holborn, with the dark hues and exquisite stained glass windows creating the perfect location to show such magical, affluent artistry. The collection projected punches of colour and empowerment, through a sublime story captured through tones, textures and embroidery.

This radiant collection transcended mere beauty, taking you on a journey from gentle and elegant tones to the fiery and empowering spirit of the Phoenix. The show began with opulent hues of dusky pink, glistening silvers and ice blues on silk gowns, sequined capes, tulle dresses, soft faux furs and fabulous feathered suits. The collection further consisted of Breton’s signature tailored suits, embellished in glistening Swarovski crystals, creating strong empowering feminine silhouettes and nobly all made from upcycled fabrics and recycled plastics. 

The collection then evolved into lavish, fiery and superlative tones of red, projecting the journey of the rebirth of a phoenix. Stunning red silk gowns, with long lavish trains ready for any ball or red carpet, were presented alongside textured red and black statement power suits, perfect for all occasions. The collection then transformed into cobalt blue tulle fitted gowns, draped checked coats and ultimately, into the dexterous array of black feather textured gowns, with empowering Lady Gaga vibes taking to the catwalk and completing the journey of the Phoenix.

Once again, Malan Breton outdid himself with such a versatile and ready-to-wear collection, with anything from a dinner event to an evening ball being covered by this season’s lavish offering.

Words // Ellie Mose- Senior Fashion Assistant

Photos // Malan Breton

Paul Costelloe always provides such a luxurious offering and this season was no different. We were treated to graphic print moments and tweed coats, which were sourced from the Scottish Highlands. It was very après-ski meets Parisian-chic-sportswear for the glamour puss! As always, there were some major Prinny moments of exquisite evening wear with floral prints. The hooded soft floral piece was such a sublime take on a powerful trans-seasonal piece and ultimately, this was collection for the self-confident woman who doesn’t need to sacrifice comfort for style. 

Words // Christobelle Batchelor - Fashion Director

Photos // Paul Costelloe

Mark Fast’s AW20 collection was a showstopper, courtesy of the swinging sixties, one of my favourite decades! With thigh-high boots and block coloured knitwear, this was such an easy to wear yet fun collection, with epic shag pile coats, crochet gowns and fringed skirts. Mark Fast is of course renowned for his original take on knitwear and since I adore a great transitional piece for colder nights, there was no shortage of beautiful coat options to delight!

Words // Christobelle Batchelor - Fashion Director

Photos // Mark Fast