MARNI // MFW SS19

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I just love it when designers go their own way away from the prescribed format of what a Fashion Show or show notes ‘should’ be and Marni was a wonderful breath of fresh air! Inspired by mattresses no less – I rather think of the bed as the second kitchen for me (where I spend the majority of my time) and it is a sacred sanctuary – so with all of the guests sitting on rows of second hand beds to reflect the bedding obsession this was just perfect -  here is an excerpt from the show notes:

Mattress recipe.

Preparation of unknown origins for multiple hands.

Coming from today, maybe from tomorrow.

Tonic and invigorating.

Favored by the gods of the Genetically Modified Olympus.

Ingredients

-Ancient Greece marble, at will

-White painter’s canvas, in rolls

-Deboned meat of Doric columns, in abundance

-Caramelized magnanimity

-Flambé ferocity 

-Whims, in sheets

-Sliced ​​esotericism

-Sharp angles

-Live tempera

-Oxymorons, quantum suffice

Such wit and poise which lead us into a wonderfully refreshing collection featuring all of my first fashion loves; sunglasses, chunky jewellery, corsetry and semi structured skirts. This was offset with tones of beige, ecru and white which was a lovely juxtaposition of the put together yet nonchalant feel. This was a collection which was both supportive, comfortable and the foundation of strength – rather like the mattress. Interspersed with draped dresses in show stopping prints, this was a confident and stunning collection.   

Words // Christobelle Batchelor - Fashion Director 

Photos // Marni 

For Restless Sleepers is always a sensual and magical affair it is a testament to Francesca Ruffini’s trailblazing creativity that she can reimagine the humble pajama so many times into a thing of opulence, luxury and grace! For this season she traveled Asia – Vietnam, Japan, Hong Kong, India, Shanghai whose influence was just visceral with colourful prints of Imperial Indian peacocks, Rajasthani monkets, Japenese cherry trees and forest in Vietnam with luscious foliage. Silk organza robes with twill silk pajama suits and an ankle grazing jacket were just a few of the oriental inspired imperial elegance that we were treated to for this season. I am such a fan of nightwear as daywear as not only is it super comfortable but there is certainly no chance of anyone turning up in the same outfit. It is just so elegant without even having to try!

Words // Christobelle Batchelor - Fashion Director 

Photos // For Restless Sleepers

I think in modern society where the Divine Feminine energy of nurturing, cooperation and creation has been repressed in favour of the; aggressive, consumerist, unevolved 

dominant masculine energy. The greatest source of feminine mystery and power is the ability to form and create another human soul. In a society where Pregnancy is treated like an ‘illness’ this mindset has trickled into fashion too as maternity wear has been in the past seen as dumpy and unglamorous. 

Bianca Balti’s Maternity line is the perfect antidote to this patriarchal mindset! Contrary to popular belief being pregnant is your most powerful time! I mean... having another being inside your body and building their body from yours and bringing another human being into this world is THE force of creation, without it the human race would not be here and why should you dress like you are at half of your strength?!

Bianca Balti, the beautiful Italian model and mother of two daughters launched her debut collection with 60’s inspired maternity wear not only doing it for the sisterhood but also sustainably conscious as everything has been made using stock fabrics. Beautifully cut shirt dresses, pink smocks and even a blue two piece were just perfect for breathing a much-needed fashion forward approach to maternity wear. Taking inspiration from Grace Kelly and Jane Birkin these pieces can easily be worn postpartum too and just ooze the freedom of the decade. Huge congratulations to Bianca Balti for spearheading the resurgence of powerful maternity wear for the modern Goddess!

Words // Christobelle Batchelor - Fashion Director

Photos // Bianca Balti Maternity 

Antonio Croce's  SS19 Mirabilia collection was a masterclass in regal opulence set in the outdoor garden of Milan’s; ‘I Chiostri di San Barnaba’, set along Roman columns this was a snapshot of how fashion is indeed cyclical. Adding to the otherworldly feel. This was an army for the modern Goddess with half on/half off military jackets which added a lovely freshness.  There were soft moments of floral elegance and then the crowning glory was the renaissance style dresses complete with elegant Tudor necklines. ‘Taste, smell, touch, sight and sound: femininity passes through all the senses to outline a sensuality that feeds off of sensations.’ And this was a feast for the eyes!

Words // Christobelle Batchelor - Fashion Director

Photos // Antonio Croce

She doesn’t have a religion.

Her faith

resides in

the stars, flowers, ocean, and herself.

This was the quote which inspired this fairytale collection for SS19, something which sings to 

my soul. It just reminds me of the sound of waves along the shore, untameable and free. 

Inspired by nature, with Mother Earth’s perfect design in flowers, feathers, leaves and 

animal patterns, Paula Cademartori’s Brazilian soul guided her in the search for unexpected 

colour combinations. Paula’s Italian discipline drove the choice of the most exquisite 

materials, which were used to convey elegance, comfort and functionality. ‘My shoes are 

really made for walking. My bags are really made for a life on the move.’ The presentation 

itself housed the bags and shoes in larger than life fairytale size books, which took us on a 

mystical journey of enchantment.

For cute options, there were gingham kitten heels and for the fierce ones, multicolour flats 

embellished with python prints and flamboyant feathers. There were also edgy leopard 

wedges combining suede, patent leather and bamboo. We cannot of course forget the 

nights on the town chic stiletto sandals, enriched with precious crystal details wrapping 

around the feet. And for the bags there is Daria, a curvy semicircular shape, which can be 

worn as both a cross body and a top handle. She comes in many variations, from a gingham 

fabric overprinted with a graphic flower to intarsia leather and ayers. Experimenting with materials and treatments, Paula played with high frequency technologies to create 3D embossed textures. This was accessory heaven!

Words // Christobelle Batchelor - Fashion Director

Photos // Paula Cadematori

Transparency was a key theme for Genny’s SS19 offering with a plastic cape covered in what 

looked to be candy wrappers and a white blouse was finished with clear sleeves. This added 

a smooth and easy to wear feel whilst also mimicking those hot summer days, when the sun 

is just so bright it makes everything sparkle! Fluidity came through the fabrics with an 

almost oceanic feel with a sea blue belted coat opening the show which made me dream of 

sunnier climes. There were printed moments on kimono tops, kaftan dresses and jumpsuits 

which all would just be perfect for warm summer evenings.

Words // Christobelle Batchelor - Fashion Director

Photos //  Genny

Beatrice B  a sumptuous delight of haute-tech research, new colour combinations and visual 

impacts all combined to create different worlds, that are all part of the same universe of Beatrice B . While rooted in the present, it pushes its stylistic language towards the future.

There were lilac and citrus accents with timeless monochrome moments which added a

touch of elegance. There were also ultra-glam moments of fierce magenta and sequins. The 

textures were three dimensional with haute-tech compact jersey and embroidered denim. 

And crowning this off with my personal favourite, Beatrice B’s beautiful vintage scarves 

prints which are reinterpreted giving life to dynamic dresses in which patchwork creates different sections of colour and influences that reshape fluid and soft lines. 

Words // Christobelle Batchelor - Fashion Director

Photos // Beatrice B